Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee
In 2022, a group of local chefs and restaurateurs—including Fishmonger’s Nhan Le and Skip Engelbrecht—announced a forthcoming fried food spot called Small Fry. Two years later, the project is finally coming to fruition, though Le and Engelbrecht are no longer associated with it. Instead, El Malo’s Omar Ferrer, Spina Pizza’s Anthony Spina Jr., and Pollo Primo’s Duane Kulers are collaborating to bring fried handhelds to the Atlanta Dairies in Reynoldstown. Newly open, Small Fry offers baskets, sandwiches, and drinks via counter service.
“We wanted to provide more quality food offerings at the Dairies,” Ferrer says. “It’s a fast-casual fried-food joint with an Italian slant.”
Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee
The menu includes a vodka-parmesan sandwich with fried chicken, burrata, pistachio pesto, and basil, all on a brioche bun; a falafel-based “Miracle Burger” with tzakiki and pickled slaw; and a fish-cake sandwich made from a cod, prawn, and scallop patty topped with New American cheese, yuzu tartar, and chili crunch. Basket options include shrimp, scallops, cod, falafel, and chicken tenders. Fritto misto provides a more elevated choice, while cioppino and a wedge salad offer lighter touches.
The fries are slightly thicker than shoestring and anointed with Wagyu beef tallow, salt, and pepper. Though the potatoes are not cut in house, the five sauces are homemade. They include honey mustard, tzatziki, yuzu tartar, chili mayo, and herb dressing.
Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee
Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee
For the rest of December, Small Fry will serve dinner and a late-night menu of smashburgers and rippers (fried hot dogs reflecting Spina’s Jersey upbringing). In January, Ferrer says he hopes to begin serving lunch as well. Dessert is also in the works. Potential offerings may include housemade cannoli, zeppole, carrot cake, and shaved ice.
The space is small, featuring 10 seats at the bar and eight stools in a narrow hallway. However, it does house a full bar led by Caleb Grubb (formerly of Fishmonger). Expect five cocktails, four house wines, and beer that pairs well with seafood—think Chimay and Three Taverns. Look for the Typhoon, a play on a hurricane comprised of brandy, pomegranate, passionfruit, pineapple, yuzu, and more.
Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee
