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Q&A With Perrine Prieur of new Perrine’s Wine Shop

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ATL Food Chatter: September 7, 2010
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Last week marked the debut of Perrine’s Wine Shop, the Westside boutique wine shop created and owned by the dynamic Perrine Prieur.

The native of Burgundy, France said that she opened her eponymous shop because she was inspired by her family heritage and passion for wine and wanted to introduce the city to a collection of innovative and value wines from smaller appellations and wine growers across the globe.

The store, located in the red hot White Provision development, features more than 300 wine labels, all hand-selected and tasted by Prieur, a certified sommelier who helmed Joël’s wine program for four years.

What prompted you to open your own business and why did you choose to locate it in Atlanta?
PP: After working at Joël, I developed a good [following] with the customers. I fell in love with the White Provisions space and it seemed natural to build on the relationships I had already made in the city. The diverse offerings of food, art and clothing in Atlanta made it very easy to assimilate into the area.

Who do you anticipate your being your primary customer—local wine lovers or an out of town clientele you attracted during your time at Joël?
PP: I think the intown clients will be the majority of my business. Everyone seems interested in [the Westside] and the vast variety of shops matches well with the clientele who buys wine. I will have some out of town customers—people who are wine enthusiasts that travel to have access to hard-to-find vintages.

Since you are offering other items besides wine—cheeses, chocolates, and coffees,—who are some of your suppliers?
PP: Ahh, that is our secret sauce! We take so much careful time in picking what goes into the store that I cannot tell you. Just come see the difference for yourself!

You will also be partnering with some local restaurants: can you share names?
PP: There is confidentiality with my suppliers: However, I will have some exciting news to share very soon!

NEWS AND NOTES:

The 2010 Midtown Restaurant Week is currently running through Sunday, September 12.

According to Eater, Richard Blais is rumored to be one of the contestants on Bravo’s newest Top Chef spin off: Top Chef All Stars.

Karen Bremer, former President of Peasant Restaurants, has been selected to serve as Executive Director of the Georgia Restaurant Association.

Atlanta restaurant star architect firm The Johnson Studio has been selected to design Restaurant Revolution, a New Orleans joint venture between Rick Tramato of Chicago’s Tru (among other restaurants) and Louisiana legend John Folse, opening in the French Quarter Royal Sonesta Hotel next year.

OpenTable’s new group buying discount program, Spotlight, has expanded into Atlanta with some of the online restaurant reservation provider’s top restaurant partners.

Buckhead. The Atlanta Business Chronicle is reporting that the Ruby Tuesday at 3345 Lenox Road will be converted into Truffles , an upscale café concept that has been purchased by Ruby Tuesday’s parent company, in 2011.

What Now Atlanta reports that Saskatoon is closing.

Decatur. Cliff Bostock reports on Madras Woodlands, featuring both northern and southern Indian cuisine.

Dunwoody. Tomorrow’s News Today is reporting that locally owned Galla’s Pizza is opening their third store this fall in the Perimeter Point shopping center at 11555 Mount Vernon Highway.

Inman Park. Shaun’s will host a Southern Craft Beer dinner, Wednesday, September 8, featuring a “Southern Feast paired with the South’s finest brews”.

 
Besha Rodell writes about the progress of the renovation of The Wrecking Bar, a brewpub and special events facility, slated to launch in early 2011 at 292 Moreland Avenue.

Marietta. What Now Atlanta is reporting that the Marlowe’s Tavern group is opening store number seven late this year at 1311 Johnson Ferry Road in the Merchant’s Walk retail center.

Tucker. ToNeTo reports that The Loop Pizza Grill at Embry Hills has closed.

Westside. Westside Provisions District and Atlanta Cotillion are presenting a Wine Walk on Thursday, September 16 to benefit AID Atlanta, featuring the sommeliers from Perrine’s Wine Shop.

Question of the Week: What Downtown resto has just added a rooftop cigar bar featuring live music and small plates?

PS. The answer to last week’s QOTW—What upscale barbecue catering service is serving lunch on Fridays out of its new work space?—is Black Tie Barbecue, now serving lunch at 486 Decatur Street.

Veteran Atlanta sommelier to open namesake wine boutique this fall

The city’s white-hot West Midtown dining district managed to crank up the heat a bit more this week with the announcement that beloved Atlanta sommelier Perrine Prieur is opening her own boutique wine shop this fall.

Reps for the White Provision Development Company tell us that Perrine’s Wine Shop, set to debut in autumn, will feature more than 200 labels, all hand-selected and tested by Prieur herself.

Lovers of the fermented grape can anticipate that the former Joel sommelier will be focused on introducing the city to “a collection of innovative and value wines from smaller appellations and wine growers across the globe, including handcrafted, biodynamic and organic selections.”

Adds White Provision Development Company principal Chris Faussemagne: “As the first of its kind, Perrine’s Wine Shop will offer a special but seamless addition to the dynamic group of businesses mixed-used district.”

Indeed.

The Burgundy, France native will be neighbors with a large chunk of  Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison‘s culinary empire, including Abattoir, Bacchanalia, Quinones at Bacchanalia and Star Provisions. The block also includes JCT Kitchen & Bar, Shaun Doty‘s brand-new YEAH! Burger, West Egg Cafe, Ormsby’s and Taqueria del Sol. And up the street? Richard Blais’ always-packed Flip Burger Boutique.

The Grape gets rejuiced

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ATL Food Chatter: May 10, 2010
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Good news for vinophiles who enjoy a casual atmosphere: The Atlanta-based wine bar chain formally known as the Grape plans to rise above its past financial problems with new leadership, a trio of revamped Atlanta stores, and an aggressive vision for expansion.  

The chain, which at one time boasted local celebrity franchisee Usher, landed in bankruptcy because it was saddled with costly leases as it tried to grow too quickly, according to Emily Streib Marcil, President of Second Growth LLC.
 
Second Growth LLC, which is owned by Atlanta high-tech entrepreneur Gregg Freishtat, purchased the business out of bankruptcy last year and now owns the three remaining Atlanta area Grape locations, which form the foundation of the company’s new direction. Freishtat and Marcil have replaced the previous regime’s franchise-driven operation with a business model designed to establish The Grape Wine Bar and Bistro as the first national brand in the wine industry. Its expanded name reflects the brand’s new emphasis on making the dining experience equal to the wine experience.
 
Marcil, who joined the company after twelve years with Capital Grill, has spent her first year on the job determining what strategies would be most effective in rebuilding the brand. Her first step: tweaking the design, menus and wine list of the three Atlanta stores—in Phipps Plaza, Vinings and Atlantic Station. Atlanta firm ai3 was commissioned to update the interiors and will also design the new prototype being developed for Second Growth’s expansion plans. Paul Agnelli, formerly of the Capital Grill and the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, has been hired as the corporate chef, and master sommelier Jay James consulted on the revision of the wine list. Live music and private dining areas are part of the revamp. Some revised menu items include flatbread with pulled pork and fire-roasted corn, and jack cheese; shrimp and grits with tasso ham gravy; and herb-roasted Springer Mountain chicken with caramelized shallot butter with asparagus and roasted fingerling potatoes.
 
Once the renovations have been completed and finessed, 2011 will see the roll out of the new prototype in Atlanta, around the Southeast and possibly beyond. 

NEWS AND NOTES:

 
Linton Hopkins will be the guest chef at the inaugural event of the Atlanta Botanical Garden’s Well Seasoned Chef series on Wednesday, May, 19 from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. The entire series is listed as sold out, but you can be placed on the waiting list by calling 404-459-1543.

Speaking of Linton Hopkins, Chris Gaither, former sommelier at Restaurant Eugene, is interning at the French Laundry.
 
Alpharetta. Thrillist is reporting that Mango’s Cuban Cuisine has opened at 5950 North Point Parkway.
 
Atlantic Station. Lobby has instituted a $10 all-you-can-eat pizza special every Thursday night from 6 to 9 p.m. There will also be free movies shown in Atlantic Station’s park every Thursday evening as well.
 
Buckhead. Au Pied de Cochon in the InterContinental Hotel begins a “Passport to France” series next week, exploring regional specialties from France. The series will continue, for one week beginning on the third Monday of each month, for the remainder of 2010. This month features the France’s Southwest, with dishes such as white asparagus and foie gras salad and beef tenderloin Rossini.

Rumor has it that a 4,000-square-foot, 175-seat English pub will open in the former La Madeline space at 1931 Powers Ferry Road by mid-June.
 
Decatur. What Now Atlanta reveals that Yogli Mogli, a local fro-yo chain, is opening a store in Emory village in the former Emory University bookstore this July.
 
Downtown. Thrillist reported that Book Cafe, a bookstore/bistro, has opened at 314 Auburn Avenue.
 
Midtown. The 2010 Summer Lunch Box Series, which will run from May to July every Wednesday from 11:30 a.m until 2:30 p.m in Arts District Plaza (corner of 15th Street and Peachtree), has begun. On Wednesday, May 12th, it will feature food from Fresh 2 Order.
 
A banner on the former Oasis Mediterranean Cafe on 14th Street says, “Coming soon: Wasabi.”
 
Sandy Springs. Thrillist is reporting that Gigi’s Cupcakes, a Nashville, Tennessee group, has opened its first Georgia store at 1140 Hammonds Drive.
 
Question of the Week: What former Atlanta chef is rumored to become the new chef de cuisine at The Plaza Hotel in New York?
 
PS.  The answer to last week’s QOTW—What ATL resto was named a finalist (2nd place) for the design award in the casual/quick service category by a prestigious international hospitality design publication?—is Abattoir. Hospitality Design Magazine named them the 2010 award runner up for Dominick Coyle and Anne Quatrano’s interior design and Atlanta based Square Feet Studio’s architecture.

Loving the bar at Livingston

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I was happy when I walked into the bar at Livingston last week and couldn’t find a seat right away. Granted, it was around 7 p.m. during a show night at the Fox, but it pleased me to see the place full. What a makeover this space in the Georgian Terrace hotel has been given: all glittery, silvery, clean-lined deco and celestial ceilings. A little bit LA, a little bit Grand Central Terminal. (Forgive the limited shot: I was trying not to be too obvious.)

Livingston bar

What I’m drinking lately when I stop in: The Livingston Cocktail. It’s Maker’s Mark infused with tea, then muddled with lemons and mint. Southern-esque and summery.

Livingston drink

So glad this bar is part of the restaurant. The beauty of the architecture adds some needed romance to the cityscape.

Atlanta blogger Hardy Wallace wins Murphy-Goode gig

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As now widely reported (it was a fun afternoon on Twitter), Hardy Wallace, who runs the Dirty South Wine blog, won the competition today for “A Really Goode Job”—also known as the Wine Country Lifestyle Correspondent—at Murphy-Goode winery in Sonoma. His enthusiasm for this opportunity was tireless, so those of us who’ve been watching him over the last weeks are thrilled but not much surprised. Big congrats, Hardy!

Read the official press release and a great recent profile of Wallace by the AJC’s John Kessler.

Drinks at DBA

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When I think of beverages to serve with barbecue, the obvious—cold beer—usually comes to mind. I’ve yet to sample any ‘cue at the new DBA Barbecue in Virginia-Highland, but I’m already a fan of the drinks. The other night after a home-cooked dinner, a friend and I went for a walk into the Highlands and, having worked up a sweat in this balmy weather, decided to grab a refresher. We passed El Taco, where crowds were two-deep at the bar for margaritas, and settled on the laid-back patio at DBA next door—the hostess said we were welcome to sit out there just for drinks. DBA has plenty of beer selections—Abita, Sweetwater and Terrapin on tap; lots of craft bottles—plus a full wine list, but the intriguing cocktails got our attention.

I can’t remember the last time I had a wine cooler, but perhaps they should come back in style, because DBA’s house-made ones are perfect for summer. The menu says “think Southern sangria”—a fitting description, except that there’s no fruit floating around in the glass. We sampled and enjoyed both varieties, peach-orange and pomegranate-raspberry. Just slightly sweet, they were extremely refreshing and still packed a little punch.

We were perusing the list for our next drink orders—spiked root beer or pickled moonshine martini?—when one of the owners, Matt Coggin, brought over tastes of their pineapple-infused moonshine. DBA doesn’t distill the alcohol—it’s Junior Johnson’s—but it is house-infused with fruit for several weeks. After finishing off the surprisingly sippable 80-proof shooters, we didn’t need another drink after all. Since I’m pretty much incapable of visiting a restaurant without sampling something from the kitchen, we ordered some boiled peanuts to snack on. They were well-seasoned and came in a cute tin pail—needless to say, it was soon empty.

Good talk is the mainstay at Manuel’s

Manuel's September 1979
Manuel Maloof

Photograph by Floyd Jillson/Atlanta History Center

Editor’s note: When this ode to Manuel’s was published in September 1979, 42 years ago, the stalwart bar already was in its third decade.

When Manuel Maloof bought Harry’s Delicatessen at 602 N. Highland in 1956, DeKalb County was dry. Manuel’s fortuitous location just across the county line brought Emory University’s thirsty knowledge-seekers and thus established the intellectual branch of a most eclectic clientele.

Maloof encourages that sort of thing. The burly son of a Lebanese tavern owner practically grew up in his father’s bar on Pryor Street downtown. The Tip Top was across the street from the Fulton County Courthouse and drew the trade of lawyers and politicians. It was also where the Stone Mountain trolley turned around. Manuel worked in the bar as a youngster. He was nurtured on a rich broth of conversation—political tale and courtroom lore.

Now, Manuel’s Tavern nurtures its own rich broth of conversation. Talk is not listed on the menu, but it’s a staple of the house. It was at Manuel’s that theologian Tom Altizer, then at Emory, first proposed that God was dead. It was at Manuel’s where young Maynard Jackson went to woo the student vote in the 1968 U.S. Senate race which laid the groundwork for his mayoral successes. It was where dozens watched with reverent abstinence the televised funeral of President John Kennedy and where student radicals laid their plans in the aftermath of Camelot.

“The trick is to keep the arguments separated,” says Manuel. There are other rules as well. Cursing is generally frowned upon, a product of Manuel’s belief that a bar should be the kind of place a woman can sit in without being bothered by coarse behavior. Father Malcolm Boyd, who wrote Are You Running With Me, Jesus?, once got away with it, however, when he used a four-letter word—which created an uproar—as a device to start a theological discussion. And Manuel’s bartenders won’t generally serve known alcoholics, since Manuel doesn’t believe a bar should sell booze to “anybody who can’t drink.”

Manuel’s regular customers who haven’t been thrown out of the bar at least once feel neglected. Manuel once threw his own brother out of the bar twice in the same night. Robert Maloof was making too much of that day’s Georgia football win over Georgia Tech to suit Manuel, a Tech fan. The ejections were especially notable in light of the fact that Manuel and his younger brother have been partners for 15 years.

Manuel did not, however, boot out the nun who, in her habit and crucifix, sat down at the bar and tossed down the few beers left in the keg she was returning from a church benefit. For Manuel, raised in the Melkite Rite of the Roman Catholic Church, the nun at the bar “was one of the biggest shocks of my life. But she finished the keg.”

Manuel’s first day in business—August 6, 1956—grossed about enough to keep the lights on and the beer cold. He ran the bar himself, with a single employee, during the first two and a half years. Now, between the original location on North Highland and a newer tavern on Memorial Drive in Decatur, Manuel is called boss by an assortment of 41 bartenders, cooks, and bottle washers.

In the late ’50s, Manuel retrieved the 101-year-old bar that had been in his father’s downtown saloon, a bar whose worn-out top he had helped replace with hard-rock maple as a boy.

Manuel’s has been expanded since he bought the place to include two large rooms on either side of the original bar. An anteroom houses pinball machines and electronic games; darts are played at one end of the lengthy bar; a machine at the other end deciphers your biorhythms for a piece of change. The television set stays tuned to sports and news.

To the relief of many, expansion also has added a second bathroom. Customers who became necessarily impatient while the work was going on were directed to the service station across the street.

“About all that’s left from the old place are the booths and the back bar,” Manuel recollects. The back bar—just the center section with the tall mirror over it—is surrounded by Manuel’s perennially dusty collection of beer cans, portraits (often signed) of his political heroes, and an occasional Maloofism:

“Anybody don’t like this life is crazy,”

Anybody don’t like the food at Manuel’s is also crazy. The menu of sandwiches and burgers, beer-steamed hot dogs, salads, and, for high rollers, shrimp in the shell and oysters on the half shell, is quintessential tavern fare, best accompanied by a tall, cold pitcher.

This article was published in our September 1979 issue and was reprinted in our January 2021 issue.

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