Vacuous nightclubs and laid-back, mediocre restaurants have long dominated Crescent Avenue’s three-block stretch of prime Midtown real estate. It’s especially refreshing, then, to find this swank but quality-minded seafood destination newly opened on Twelfth Street, just down from Front Page News and Sutra Lounge.

The Fifth Group (Ecco, La Tavola, and, yes, South City Kitchen a block away) gave the former Vickery’s space a soothing makeover: Shimmery fabrics, knotty hickory paneling, and sand-colored walls evoke the beach without resorting to kitsch. Chef David Bradley draws on flavors from around the world to pair with pristine fish and shellfish: Red grouper, for example, gets a jolt of spice from curry and feisty lime pickle. Traditionalists will gravitate to the smoked seafood platter and crunchy fish and chips. Try the blueberry cream pie for dessert.