The new outpost of this Italian pizza chain with locations around the globe won’t stoke the flames of the “pizza wars” that blazed through Atlanta last year. But the thin, crisp-chewy pies do possess charm, and the place itself has a wacky kind of universal appeal. Mismatched art and psychedelic light fixtures in myriad shapes and colors hang throughout the space: If Romper Room grew up to serve cocktails, it might well look like this.

The menu lists more than fifty variations of pizza: You can go traditional (Regina Margherita), or retro (the Mareverde, with a combination of shrimp and brie that harkens to the chain’s eighties origins), or choose from among eight white pizzas. Stop by on the twenty-ninth of each month when the restaurant serves all-you-can-eat gnocchi for good luck, a custom adopted from Argentina.