The Greater Good Barbecue

Clay Harper of Fellini’s Pizza and La Fonda Latina is one of the investors in this new barbecue joint housed in a massive building with a clapboard exterior and wraparound porch that was most recently the Golden Dolphin seafood restaurant.

Though it’s a welcome addition to an area mostly clogged with national chains, the food lacks the soulfulness one craves in barbecue. Piles of pulled pork and brisket arrived mushy on our visit, and a dry rub overly sweet with brown sugar marred the stubby ribs. Four variations of tomato-based sauces needed finer tuning: They were bland or too sharp with vinegar.

Unexceptional sides included collards, oily mac and cheese, and tater tots. At least the staffers who took our order at the front counter and then delivered to our table were a fast, friendly lot.