The Spence

“Top Chef: All Stars” winner Richard Blais returns to the kitchen full-time at this Midtown partnership with Concentrics (One Midtown Kitchen, Two Urban Licks, Parish). The dinner menu evolves daily, with the three dozen or so dishes changing according to the kitchen’s melting-pot inspirations.

Small plates are the early standouts; comb the list for creations that highlight stark protein contrasts, like fried pork belly wrapped in smoked sturgeon. Blais’s food can involve a lot of tongue-in-cheek culinary wit: For a simple pleasure, try the Juicy Lucy, a Midwestern burger invention where the cheese is stuffed inside the patty, so every bite gushes molten goodness. Sommelier Justin Amick emerges as the Spence’s breakout star with his exuberant tableside charisma and his concise, engaging wine list.