Watershed on Peachtree

The ghosts of Watershed past have largely been expunged. Little of the restaurant’s resurrection in south Buckhead recalls the converted service station in Decatur where Indigo Girl Emily Saliers and her partners fueled the local renaissance of honest Southern cooking.

The vast new space embraces conventional refinement: carpet squares in neutral tones; comfy, long-legged chairs; and a warm, shiny oak bar in the side room. New American and European influences now thread through the menu, including dishes like scallop schnitzel and cowgirl steak with black truffle gravy.

But executive chef Joe Truex is at his best when he draws from his Louisiana upbringing, which particularly shines through in his jambalaya. The sole nod to the restaurant’s history is its legendary fried chicken, still brined and browned as instructed in the original recipe, but now served on Wednesdays instead of Tuesdays.