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After five years of delays, Spina Pizza is finally opening at Atlanta Dairies

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Spina Pizza oven

Photo by Anitra Isler

Spina Pizza has been “opening soon” for so long that owner-chef Anthony Spina Jr. can laugh about it now. After years of contractor headaches, city delays, construction snags, and the financial strain of building a restaurant from scratch, the long-awaited pizzeria is finally nearing the finish line. Spina says he hopes to open August 27 following a series of pop-ups. Located in Atlanta Dairies beside Small Fry, for which Spina also serves as partner and chef, the pizzeria is part Jersey and part Italian American red-sauce comfort.

Spina grew up in the pizza business, first in New Jersey and then in Georgia, working under his father, Anthony Spina Sr., founder of O4W Pizza. The elder Spina opened the original Old Fourth Ward stall in Irwin Street Market in 2015, earned a following for his square, crackly Grandma Pie, then moved the restaurant to Duluth. The suburban location quietly closed this summer after roughly a decade in business.

Spina Jr. was 10 years old when his father opened his first restaurant, and he remembers stretching dough, slinging pies, and absorbing the rhythms of a family-run kitchen. Later, he worked with his father at O4W until 2020, when he broke off to do his own thing. Spina Pizza began as a pop-up, first appearing at 8Arm and later at Atlanta Dairies. Early versions leaned Neapolitan-style, with margherita, funghi, and Hot Boy pies, the latter topped with pepperoni and hot honey. The brick-and-mortar will keep some of those flavors, but Spina says the crust and execution have evolved.

Expect six, 12-inch wood-fired pies with rotating specials. Spina says the flavors will be familiar to anyone who followed the pop-ups, with a few new twists. Late-night slices—served Fridays and Saturdays from 10 p.m. to midnight—will nod to his childhood.

Hot Boy pizza

Photo by Anitra Isler

Beyond pizza, the menu will include Italian-American favorites like steak pizzaiola (“pizza man’s steak”) with broccoli rabe, potato croquettes with red sauce, a classic chopped salad, wood-roasted lasagna, and cassata al forno, a Sicilian-style baked pastry Spina calls a forgotten dessert. The restaurant will open for dinner six days a week, with weekend lunch service that will eventually expand to weekdays.

The beverage program will be deliberately light: natural wines, amari, and spritzes (no hard liquor). House pours will include white, red, sparkling, and orange wines, with additional by-the-glass and bottle selections rotating daily. Beer will be limited to an Italian pick and a local brew from nearby Three Taverns.

The restaurant seats 100 people. Inside, Spina describes an industrial warehouse feel with a bit of Los Angeles polish: brick walls, a long L-shaped banquette, and tables clustered throughout the center. He pulled inspiration from places he admires, including Pizzeria Bianco and Chicago’s Alla Vita, then filtered it through his own nostalgic lens.

Diavolo pizza

Photo by Anitra Isler

And then there is the pink. The flamingo-like shade reappears throughout the space, from a neon sign to the pizza boxes to the bathrooms. It’s playful by design, a visual cue that Spina Pizza is here for the messy, joyful range of Italian-American dining.

“I’m young,” Spina says. “I want to open as many locations as I can.”

First, he has to open the one that has been years in the making.

WonderRoot

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Since opening in 2004, this inspirational nonprofit committed to advocating for arts, artists, and social change has hosted more than 1,000 music shows and 700-plus free classes for artists who—with membership—can access recording studios, darkrooms, silkscreen and pottery studios, and more. At a time when other arts-related nonprofits have slipped, this Reynoldstown arts center has upped the ante, starting an in-house literary magazine, Loose Change, and forging new alliances with big fish like the High.

H. Harper Station

Owner and chief mixologist Jerry Slater runs this food-industry favorite that conjures a Southern vibe with its brick-lined room (a former train depot), punch served in crystal bowls, and dependable nibbles like deviled eggs and pimento cheese. Slater and his bartenders turn out smart, adventurous cocktails with a riot of spirits, bitters, and flavorings like lapsang souchong tea syrup, but they also craft an excellent rendition of a Vieux Carré, the classic New Orleans drink.

Best of Atlanta 2013: Standard Setter 
Classics (a bracing Manhattan, a not-too-sweet mai tai) and newfangled concoctions (the rum-laced Smoke Screen, with lapsang souchong tea syrup and a mescal rinse) are made with equal care at Jerry Slater’s handsome bar and restaurant, housed in a former train depot in Reynoldstown

Home Grown

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Kevin Clark and Lisa Spooner, the owners of this sincere new Southern spot in Reynoldstown, have what it takes to succeed in a tough economy. Their renovation of the former Mammy’s Kitchen honors the past—kudos that they kept the knotty pine paneling and the rustic counter. Hearty breakfasts with homemade biscuits, cheese grits, and egg dishes; fun blue plates with summery vegetable sides and wedges of crumbly cornbread; and homemade ice pops and pies all behoove a tongue-in-cheek diner that even has a groovy art gallery in the back.

The restaurant opens early seven days a week and closes after lunch (it also serves breakfast until midday). Everyone will appreciate the rock-bottom prices—including vegetarians, who can choose from meat-free options such as the “Georgia Peach Sloppy Joe.”

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