How much does Bon Appétit’s restaurant and drinks editor, Andrew Knowlton, love WaHo? Enough to work at—and report from—one for 24 hours. Last year he washed dishes, flipped omelets, and mixed waffle batter using a power drill/whisk contraption at a Buckhead Waffle House. Knowlton, who grew up in Atlanta, is an evangelist for what he calls “a regional touchstone right up there with SEC football and pork rinds,” and since 2012 has emceed the Waffle House Smackdown at the Charleston Wine and Food Festival. “Explaining Waffle House to Yankees is like explaining lots of Southern things: sweet tea, boiled peanuts, manners, and wearing pearls to sporting events. They just look at you funny and wait for the punchline.”
This article originally appeared in our July 2015 issue.