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Over the course of three meals, I kept writing in my notes, “Doesn’t trust the ingredients.” However high the quality of the fish and seafood, Turbush seemed compelled to cloak it in a comfortingly familiar blanket. Yet it’s clear that there’s real expertise lurking in Drift’s uneven kitchen.
At Stem Wine Bar, the newest East Cobb spot by Seed Kitchen & Bar owner and executive chef Doug Turbush, mystery is the name of the game. Opening in mid-July, Stem will follow in the style of New York speakeasies: It won’t have a sign and will only be identifiable by its location (1311 Johnson Ferry Road, adjacent to Seed) and a single corkscrew on the door.