Angus Brown and Nhan Le’s joint in the old Bluefin space in Brookwood Hills is a venture into the mainstream. Two white-tiled bars (one a raw bar and nigiri counter under Le’s control, the other for drinks) gleam under the spotlights of a lofty dining room—a far cry from the dark, cramped corners of their late-night pop-up, Octopus Bar. Small plates rule the day. Smear rounds of pain au levain piled high with trout roe through an airy crème fraîche topped with Espelette pepper, or crunch on fried smelt paired with a lemony aioli. The can’t-miss item is the charcuterie board crafted by Jonathan Sellitto, who stands to be one of the country’s most talented charcutiers.

1829 Peachtree Road, 678-705-1486,