Photo by Brandon Amato
Remember Jonathan St. Hilaire? He served as executive pastry chef at Woodfire Grill, owned Bakeshop in Midtown, and worked at the Lawrence, then moved out of state for nearly 10 years. Now he’s back as director of operations for Big Table Restaurants, the company that owns Hobnob, Lazy Llama Cantina, and a new, upscale concept called Cattle Shed Wine & Steak Bar, set to open in May at Halcyon in Forsyth County.
“I’ve spent 30 years in the restaurant business. This role is a wonderful challenge and opportunity for me,” he says.
He’s hired Colin McGowan (Colletta, Kimball House, Bacchanalia) to lead the kitchen, serving seasonal, chef-driven steaks, along with cheeses and charcuterie. The premium cuts of meat will come from Stone Mountain Cattle Co. and include ribeye, filet, and spinalis. Chicken, gnocchi, a burger, and trout will be available, too. Seasonal sides may include roasted root vegetables, creamed Brussels sprouts, confit fingerling potatoes, roasted mushrooms, and potato gratin, while starters include roasted bone marrow, scallop crudo, mussels, crab cakes, beef tartare, kale Caesar salad, and foie gras terrine.
The lunch menu will be a consolidated version of the dinner offerings, with the addition of open-faced sandwiches, French dip, and a fried oyster Panzanella salad. Weekend brunch will be served, as well. St. Hilaire says he’ll be assisting with the pastries a bit—think warm chocolate truffle cake, brown butter fruit tart, and butterscotch pot de creme.
“Sure, I miss baking sometimes, but at this point in my career, I get more enjoyment out of building teams, finding talent and giving them the opportunities I got, and seeing how they grow,” he says.
Wine will play as much a role in Cattle Shed as steak. Compiled by a Master Sommelier, the list features 150 bottles with 30 wines offered by the glass. Options will rotate seasonally, including both New and Old-World styles. Build-your-own cheese and charcuterie plates are designed to complement the wine.
With beverage manner Shannon Adams leading the charge, the indoor-outdoor bar will also serve a selection of sangrias, beer, frosé, and craft cocktails, including at least one infused with wine. The space is designed to be cozy with a rice purple and brass color scheme, numerous banquettes, and big windows that look out onto the open-air, wraparound patio.
“There’s a lightness, a freshness, to it,” St. Hilaire says.
