Photograph by Martha Williams
Pure Quill Superette
I walked into Pure Quill Superette at God’s appointed time for a deli: noon on a Saturday. Located on Memorial Drive in Edgewood, Pure Quill is the concoction of Hudson Rouse, the chef at Whoopsie’s and Rising Son. Rouse took over the spot that was formerly the Chop Shop and used the space, once a tire store, to open his neighborhood market. It’s a family business for Rouse: His grandparents ran a small supermarket in West Virginia for six decades.
Inside, there’s a half dozen diner tables to your right; the lunch counter and a deli case (about a car’s length) of fruits, vegetables, and meats are to your left; and down the center is a miniature supermarket, or superette, with essentials like candy, chips, and toilet paper.
Outside, a few picnic tables sit underneath the former carport, and there are plans to open an outdoor bar there in late summer. The food menu is larger than your average lunch spot’s, with a few breakfast options, several sandwiches, rice bowls, and grilled proteins to pair with a side. For breakfast, I tried the sausage, egg, and cheese on a pain de mie bun, which earned its $9 price tag on size alone. A fried-tofu rice bowl for lunch hit the spot; the kimchi was extra tangy and had some spice, adding a perfect kick to the bowl, with cilantro and a fried egg on top. Finally, for my dessert, I opted for the fried chicken sandwich. The chicken breast hung on for its life over the bun, and, in a world of spicy fried chicken sandwiches, Pure Quill’s was a refreshing twist, with honey mustard, dill pickles, and chopped iceberg lettuce making it a great meal on a hot day.
Pure quill is a phrase used in an old country song by Pinto Bennett and The Famous Motel Cowboys, meaning “authentic” or “the real thing.” As far as this neighborhood superette goes, it passes the test. Edgewood
Pizza Verdura Sincera
Trying a new place where a beloved ice cream counter once stood stirs nostalgia. There is comfort, though, in seeing the Zesto’s mural intact on the wall by the parking lot, even if it triggers a craving for a Nut Brown Crown. But restaurant life goes on, and now the draw is pizza, specifically plant-based pies. They’re served in an open room with a bohemian, industrial vibe—exposed brick, aqua paint, cement floors, cherry-stained wood, and high ceilings. Seating includes banquettes, a communal table, and a few barstools (there’s beer on tap and wine). Choose from half a dozen specialty pizzas and a few seasonal salads. The fresh pizza dough (made using organic, non-GMO flour) produces a light, golden-brown crust with toasty bubbles along the rim, and a sweet and tasty blend of vegan mozzarella and cheddar ups the flavor. The standout pizza is the Messicano, with spicy vegan sausage, peppers, roasted corn, onion, garlic, and ginger for extra kick. Little Five Points
Casa Balam
A sexy, hacienda-style restaurant has opened where the staid Ted’s Montana Grill in Decatur once stood. A Saturday night finds the main room filled with Latin music, candlelight, lively conversations, and views to the kitchen. Bartenders proffer colorful cocktails as quickly as servers whisk them away to guests. Booths, tables, and outdoor seating along Ponce are available, as are bar counter seats. Among the stunners on the Cócteles list is Feeling Golden, a vibrant mix of mezcal, marigold, turmeric, triple sec, chipotle honey, mandarin, and lemon. Perfect alongside said drink, and served with crisped tortillas, is the luscious guacamole. Garnished with herbs, flower blossoms, radish, and walnuts, the robust dip proved delightful throughout a meal that included duck confit empanadas, grilled cactus salad, braised octopus tacos, and roasted branzino. Distinctive menu items include steaks from Chicago’s Meats By Linz, with a choice of butters, such as bone marrow, herb, salsa, and chimichurri. Decatur
This article appears in our August 2024 issue.
