Photograph by Martha Williams
Eleven years ago, chef Octavio Aguirre arrived in Atlanta with the dream of bringing his Mexican culture to the South. To his surprise, his salsas were too spicy, and his mezcals were too strong. Coming from a family in Jalisco of jimadores (agave farmers) and taqueros (taco experts), he didn’t want to pass on the opportunity to showcase the flavorful Mexican cuisine he grew up on. So he took it upon himself, with the help of his wife, Roxana Aguirre, to help broaden Atlanta’s palate.
Right off Peachtree Road in Buckhead, step into Pata Negra Mezcaleria, the couple’s third restaurant venture in Atlanta. The black walls, dried maguey roots hanging from the ceiling, and shiny harvesting tools on display create a welcoming, mezcal-focused ambience. The distinctive decor is eye-catching, as is the impressive agave spirits selection behind the bar. Avoiding celebrity-endorsed brands and syrup-laden margaritas, Pata Negra’s cocktail and spirits program opens a door to the history and tradition of Mexico’s agave plant. It offers a selection of spirits rarely found outside the country.
Mezcal often gets compared to tequila, rightfully. Tequila is a type of mezcal—one that comes specifically from the Blue Weber agave plant. Mezcal is made from over 30 different types of agave, offering diverse tones and flavors. Smoke is the most common flavor note mentioned, followed by others according to the agave and distillation process: earthy, peppery, citrus, vanilla, and even leather. The typically clear spirit can sometimes turn a soft yellow when it has been aged. “It’s like wine,” says Roxana, an agave spirits sommelier who owns Ancestral Bottle Shop in Westside Paper. “Different agaves, regions, and production processes create diverse flavor profiles.”
Mezcal, which has been around since the 16th century, has made its way across Mexico’s borders in recent years. From 2003 to 2023, the demand for mezcal grew nearly 300 percent in the United States.
As mezcal’s popularity has grown and mass production of the spirit has increased, Atlanta mixologists are getting creative with mezcal cocktails. Chef Octavio suggests paying attention to the spirit being served. “You don’t want to get the mezcal watered down with sugar water,” he says. “Read the bottle and go for 100 percent agave spirits.” Small-batch Mexican brands that have stayed true to their traditions and use artisanal processes—such as 5 Sentidos, Tio Pesca, Pescador de Sueños, Vago, and Los Siete Misterios—are now easier to find behind the bar in Atlanta.
Bartender Antoaneta Boyanova at Atlas in Buckhead offers the refreshing Hibiskiss, a sweet, citrusy, floral cocktail with Banhez mezcal. For coconut and tangy notes, order the Southern Passion cocktail, but request that the rum the recipe calls for be replaced with Banhez mezcal for a smokier flavor.
For a lighter cocktail, grab José Buitrago’s Matsuyama’s Jacket at Umi. Inspired by the first Japanese professional golfer to win the Masters, the cocktail uses citrus and shiso syrup to play up the Los Siete Misterios mezcal, with a slightly spicy finish.
Jose Pereiro’s Piña cocktail at MidCity in Midtown offers another mezcal-forward experience. Here, the pineapple takes a back seat, letting the smokiness of Los Siete Misterios mezcal dominate in the hard seltzer–like carbonated cocktail on tap. For the adventurous, the Elote cocktail, featuring sweet corn, offers a softer introduction to mezcal, with milder flavors of the strong spirit.
Mezcal in Atlanta can also be enjoyed the way it was intended: neat and at room temperature. Select one of the tasting options at Patria Cocina in Grant Park, or request the mezcal cart at Pata Negra to have the experts guide you. When you are ready to share with friends, visit Roxana at Ancestral to find hard-to-get artisanal bottles with unique stories.
“Mezcal is not a trend,” says Roxana. “It’s a lifestyle.”
This article appears in our August 2024 issue.
