Pull open what looks like the door to a walk-in cooler in the kitchen and wander down a dark passageway to find this luxe speakeasy built into the back of Muss & Turner’s. Named for Eleanor Seale, the company’s controller, the secret space was created as a hangout for free-spending, calorie-oblivious regulars.

The menu changes constantly, a daily roster of indulgences like chicharrónes with a splash of hot vinegar, bacon dipped in chocolate, flatbread pizza with smoked duck, and the occasional wickedly expensive bone-in steak. The magnificent chicken wings (with ras el hanout spice mix, lemon, and olive oil) remain available as a signature dish, best enjoyed with one of the house boilermakers—craft beers with shots of artisan booze.

Fashionable ingredients do not a cocktail make, however, and alchemy seems to elude a bar crew whose disjointed mixed drinks lack presence. You’re better off ordering a draft brew or a glass of wine from the restaurant’s deep cellar.