Seven Hens

The concept is more brilliant than the food at this counter-service schnitzel restaurant. Michael Gurevich, a young Israeli, has a good instinct for what pleases the American palate: a hundred variations on the same dish. A chicken cutlet, fried and sliced to order, gets an international makeover (French, Chinese, Indian, Mexican, American, Italian, and a build-your-own option called the Traveler) through varyingly seasoned spiced breadcrumbs, spreads, sauces, toppings, and choices of breads and wraps.

A schnitzel stuffed into a poor approximation of a baguette with herbes de Provence, olive tapenade, aioli, Dijon mustard, lettuce, tomato, and onions may not exactly conjure France. But you can have fun mixing and matching, for example, hummus, red cabbage slaw, and sliced veggies. Tofu is available as a schnitzel substitute, and the bread-averse crowd can have everything on top of a salad. Thin, crisp Yukon Gold fries and King of Pops frozen treats boost the appeal.