For his first new project in six years, Kevin Rathbun returns to Buckhead, where he started his Atlanta cooking career in the mid-nineties. KR SteakBar sits on a leafy stretch of Peachtree Hills Avenue amid the ADAC West showrooms. Its name has a catchy double rhyme but doesn’t quite describe the direction of the food, which centers on Italian-themed small plates. Order heavily from the apps, which are constantly changing and show more attention to seasonality than has been typical of a Rathbun restaurant. Steaks get the tapas treatment as well, with dishes like a modest portion of New York strip with an espresso rub and a frilly wig of fresh horseradish. The cocktails and wines from a laudable, Italian-heavy list are alone worth a visit.