Ssam is the Korean word for “wrapped.” But this charmer near Collier Road isn’t simply taking the Korean taco craze that originated in Los Angeles and applying the flavors to burgers. The concept draws from a broader palette of Asian cuisines. Owner Teresa Lee, a recent transplant from California, seasons Angus beef patties with soy sauce, brown sugar, sesame oil, and ginger. Then she crowns them with topping combinations like the “Kimcheese,” with provolone and kimchi relish, or (drawing on the Vietnamese lexicon) the Saigon, sprinkled with pungent fish sauce and piled with carrot, cucumber, daikon radish, and cilantro. She scores equally with her veggie burger made of Japanese kabocha squash and dressed with arugula and curry hummus. The burgers cost a reasonable $8.50 each and come with a side like lotus root chips or glazed Korean sweet potatoes. Order at the register and grab a seat at either the handsome wooden counter or a community table in the center of the room.