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Executive chef Michael Patrick describes Forza Storico as a "Roman beer and wine bar," but there will still be plenty of pasta.
Souper Jenny owner Jenny Levison will hang up her soup ladle—temporarily—to take on the art of pasta-making in the one-woman play, I Loved, I Lost, I Made Spaghetti, opening October 25 at the Georgia Ensemble Theatre. During the show, she makes an entire meal live on stage.
In Atlanta, I worship the housemade versions of spaghetti from the kitchens of Michael Patrick (Storico Fresco), Bruce Logue (BoccaLupo), and Drew Belline (No. 246), whom I call the three kings of pasta. But if there's something that Atlanta can't get right, however, it's baguettes.
Among the four new properties announced for Westside Provisions District are a new Italian restaurant from the Storico Fresco team and an Israeli restaurant from Bellina Alimentari's owner.
Dinner and a movie is so last year. Take advantage of these Valentine's Day specials–and special activities–around Atlanta.
Atlanta is a city that looks outward far more than inward, or even nearby. Outward, say, to the Lower East Side (the General Muir’s pastrami), or to China (Gu’s Dumplings), or to France (Bread & Butterfly’s tender, airy omelets). With the glorious exception of Ryan Smith at Staplehouse, I didn’t find a posse of young, or youngish, chefs all cooking as much for each other as for the public. The priority in Atlanta is less innovation based on local ingredients, as at Staplehouse, than finding a formula that works and then pumping out food to fit it. This makes for generous, untweezed food. But it also means food that, once successful, can become rote.
I worry the classic Manhattan is going the way of the martini: another opportunity for barkeeps to futz around with annoying techniques and show-offish ingredients. Plus: In previous decades, chefs had to be Japanese if they wanted customers to take their sushi seriously. They had to be born in Spain to attempt paella. This attitude seems quaint in an era when scholarly approach trumps birthright.
While Storico Fresco is a brilliant store, it’s not much of a restaurant. I had two meals from the menu and two others that sampled from takeout cases, and almost every single dish from the brown paper packages and plastic containers was better than the ones on the restaurant menu.
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