Antico Pizza Napoletana may still hold the city’s title belt, but this modest operation in the Irwin Street Market has emerged as a serious contender. While Neapolitan pizzas typically bake in 60 to 90 seconds, O4W’s square Grandma Pie—cooked in a cast-iron pan set in a gas deck oven—takes 20 minutes. The results are worth waiting for: a thick and crisp crust covered in a vibrant marinara, fresh mozzarella and pecorino cheese, and torn basil. 660 Irwin Street, o4wpizza.com
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This article originally appeared in our November 2015 issue.