Fresh on the Scene: Hopstix, Jai Ho, Muss & Turner’s, One Rooster Mongolian Bar

The early word on four new Atlanta restaurants
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Jai Ho
Jai Ho chef Vijeesh Parayil masters both traditional Indian breads and “street eats” like ragada and chaat.

Photograph by Caroline C. Kilgore

Hopstix
Andy Tan plans to capitalize on Chamblee’s growth with Hopstix, his brewpub serving pan-Asian bar food. The former home brewer, who came to Georgia in 1997 from his native Indonesia, opened Hopstix in February. A variety of drinks are on offer, but the spotlight is on beer: a mix of local brews from Wrecking Bar and Scofflaw as well as Tan’s own Gold Line blonde ale and Trackside, a citrusy pale ale. In an effort to gauge Chamblee’s changing clientele, chef Dony Raymond serves a mixture of sushi and grilled meats, trendy poké-topped rice bowls, and a battered and fried spicy tuna roll he’s calling a “sushi corndog.” 3404 Pierce Drive, Chamblee, 678-888-2306 —Julia Bainbridge

Jai Ho
At least five restaurants, most recently Madre + Mason, have tried their luck in this gloomy L-shaped room in Morningside. Paul Nair of Savi Provisions hopes to break the curse with the help of New York transplant and long-time friend chef Vijeesh Parayil. The Indian kitchen embraces both Eastern and Western ingredients. There’s braised lamb shank with rosemary and almond sauce; whole red snapper cooked in the tandoor and topped with shrimp curry; and an unusual but successful combination of mussels with ginger, curry leaves, and coconut flakes served on a bed of yuca. 560 Dutch Valley Road, 404-458-6888 Christiane Lauterbach

Muss & Turner’s
Just like at the original in Smyrna, choice overload sets in when you glance at Muss & Turner’s enormous chalked menu: sandwiches, salads, burgers, matzo ball soup, pickles, and cookies come in endless variations that reflect the evolution of a well-rehearsed team that’s become totally in step with its clientele. Bun or no bun? Corned beef or wagyu pastrami? Want an egg on top? You get your food at Todd Mussman, Chris Hall, and Ryan Turner’s delis the way you want it. Menu additions exclusive to this family-friendly location include a sensational fried trout sandwich with Baja-style condiments. 1205 Johnson Ferry Road, Marietta, 678-809-4040 Christiane Lauterbach

One Rooster Mongolian Bar
Entrepreneur Mike Blum is back on Howell Mill Road with One Rooster, a Chipotle-meets-stir-fry fast-casual Mongolian restaurant in the space that formerly housed the Real Chow Baby, which Blum founded and then sold some years back. Pick a base (rice or noodles) and add fresh vegetables, protein (beef, pork, shrimp, calamari, tofu, or eggs), and herbs and sauces. One of the cooks then slaps it all onto a freestanding iron griddle the size of a Smart Car. You’ll end up with a steaming, heaping plate of locally sourced food amid polished service and a terrifically diverse clientele. 1016 Howell Mill Road, 404-330-8068 Christiane Lauterbach

This article originally appeared in our June 2017 issue.

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