Photograph by Heidi Geldhauser
Is Miller Union a Southern restaurant? The field peas and grit fritters with country ham you’ll find on the menu seem to say so. But chef and owner Steven Satterfield’s approach is so modern—he has a lightness of hand, and turns traditions on their heads—so it would be wrong to put this fine-dining restaurant in a category with the rest. The James Beard Award winner’s intentions are perhaps clearest in his summer vegetable plate, loaded with crunchy stalks of fried okra, sliced tomatoes, and corn scented with tarragon. This is a chef who loves Georgia and accepts—with glee—what its soil gives him. Requisite starters are the farm egg baked in celery cream and thick grilled bread and the butter bean hummus with housemade lavash. If creamed rice with English peas, asparagus, and country ham is on the menu, order it. 999 Brady Avenue, 678-733-8550, millerunion.com
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