Photo by Morgan Wagoner
James Beard Award-winning chef Terry Koval, owner of the Deer and the Dove and B-side in Decatur, launched his newest venture this week: a wine and amaro bar called Fawn. At just 35 seats, its designed to be intimate and inviting. Located next to Café Alsace at 119 East Ponce De Leon Avenue, it offers a flexible menu easily allowing guests to stop in for a drink and snack, full meal, or dessert and nightcap.
“We want folks to come in and feel relaxed—it’s not anything pretentious,” Koval says. “We’re really excited to bring a new concept to Decatur. This is our home.”
All food is prepared over an electric stove, as there is no gas in the kitchen. Koval has also been experimenting with dry-aging fish, so many of the dishes will contain dry-aged seafood. Though the cooking methods may be different from those at the Deer and the Dove, the ingredient philosophy remains the same. “We’re trying to be really creative, but our ethos is not changing at all. What we do is very seasonal,” Koval explains.
Photo by Morgan Wagoner
Menu items are categorized as Noshes, Bites, Tastings, and Plates. Noshes include olives and nuts, as well as sea urchin chips shaped like Pringles. The Fish Plate is Koval’s version of charcuterie with bluefin tuna bresaola, fish mortadella, and monkfish liver pate. He and his son went to Brunswick to acquire wild Georgia shrimp. He’s serving it lightly poached in cardamom butter. Look for Sapelo Island clams with tuna nduja and seafood pate en croute. The Deer and the Dove pastry chef Chris Marconi is making desserts, such as a chocolate-orange tart, pastel de nata (vanilla-spiced egg custard), and chocolate bon bons. In the future, Fawn will offer a six-or-seven-course tasting menu with wine and amaro pairings, served only at the six-seat chef’s counter.
The Deer and the Dove beverage manager Matt Watkins selected nearly 40 amari, as well as 30 wines from volcanic soils and small, family-owned wineries. “I chose to focus on volcanic wine because I slowly came to realize that those were the wines I like to drink,” Watkins says. “I enjoy mineral driven wines, especially indigenous grapes from small pockets of grape-growing that taste unique. I read a book by John Szabo about volcanic wines that really opened my eyes to the powerful and distinct effect that volcanic soil has on wine. When Terry decided to focus the food menu on seafood, it just solidified the choice to focus on dry, mineral driven wines.”
He’ll be onsite educating guests about the history and flavor profiles of the offerings.
“Matt has been all over the world, tasting amaro and wine. He’s been to the distilleries; he’s been to the volcanic vineyards. His knowledge is just incredible,” Koval says.
Photo by Morgan Wagoner
Spirits will be limited to those that pair with amaro, such as vermouth, Cathead vodka, and Old Fourth rye whiskey. A small cocktail list will be available, with stirred, amaro-based drinks. Amaro flights will be offered as well.
Located in a 100-year-old building, Fawn is dark and moody. Decorated by Koval’s wife Jen, it features cast iron mirrors made from old factory windows and areas of brick that Koval and his son manually exposed. Fawn is walk-in only, with the exception of the chef’s counter for the tasting menu.
“In Europe when you go into a tiny wine bar, there are no reservations. It’s casual, it looks cool, and the food’s great,” Koval says.
Photo by Morgan Wagoner
