Photo by Brandon Amato
There’s a new conductor of the symphony that is Aria, the Buckhead restaurant founded and led by chef Gerry Klaskala for 25 years. Klaskala retired recently and sold the restaurant to longtime general manager Andres Loaiza, who along with Klaskala, is responsible for the outstanding hospitality recognized by the James Beard Foundation. Together, Loaiza and Klaskala hand-picked chef Joseph Harrison, formerly of Common Thread in Savannah, to lead Aria’s next concerto.
Loaiza and Klaskala had been following Harrison’s work from Mystic Grill in Covington to Cooks & Soldiers, Lazy Betty, and Mujo. Loaiza then visited Common Thread to taste Harrison’s cooking.
“In December, I received a text from someone who was like, Hey, this is chef Gerry Klaskala. I’d love to talk. Growing up in Atlanta, knowing such a venerated figure, I was kind of floored and didn’t really believe it. So I actually sent his number off to someone else to confirm. Many conversations and meetings later, here we are,” explains Harrison, a James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef: Southeast. “The core of the restaurant is its hospitality, and that won’t change. We’ll continue to grow and build on the restaurant’s accomplishments, pushing hospitality to an even higher level.”
We spoke with Harrison about his plans for the revered restaurant.
How do you feel stepping into Klaskala’s esteemed shoes?
It’s a huge honor. To have that honor bestowed upon me, to be the person they chose to carry Aria to the next generation is a huge deal, and something I don’t take lightly. It’s definitely a little bit nerve wracking. That being said, chef Gerry said many times that he doesn’t want Aria to be a museum.
Are you nervous about getting to know the patrons and not meeting their longstanding expectations?
I’m not sure if that’s how I’d phrase it. I have a little bit of nervousness surrounding the fact that people have been coming here almost as long as I’ve been alive. The last thing I want to do is rip the tablecloth out from under them. So my first and foremost task is to earn the guests’ trust and earn the team’s trust. From that point, we can start to expand a little bit and get a little more adventurous.
How do you and owner Andres Loaiza work together?
We had immediate chemistry when we started these conversations. We’re both passionate and stubborn in the right ways, and our visions for the restaurant align for the most part. Our differing views also help stimulate creativity and push the restaurant forward.
Why did you decide to step away from Common Thread right after being named a James Beard semifinalist?
It’s a huge deal to get that semifinalist nod. The timing of it wasn’t the greatest thing in the world, but by the time that announcement came around, we’d already started the conversations about transitioning to Aria. I had the thought of why would I walk away from this if I have the chance to receive the award. But Aria also had the nomination for outstanding hospitality. Ultimately, I decided I could bring the two stories together. Aria has such a level of hospitality that aligns with the level of cooking that I want to strive for.
Photo by Brandon Amato
What kind of changes will you make to Aria and the menu?
I grew up in and around Atlanta, so I was heavily influenced by international cuisine. I have a love for vegetable-forward cooking, and Aria has always been about using great fresh ingredients, so that just kind of lends itself to transitioning into anything we want to do in the future. I really like to play into a little bit of spice and sweet and salty. I really like to kind of bring all those flavors together and make a harmony throughout the menu.
What changes have you made so far?
I started at Aria around the beginning of April. So far, I’ve added two new items to the menu and remixed a couple of existing ones with my own spin. My strategy is to introduce familiar dishes with a twist to earn customers’ trust.
I developed a love for using raw fish in Savannah. I simplified some ingredients on the hamachi, added seasonal vegetables, and replaced avocado pieces with avocado crema.
There’s a crispy duck confit thigh on the menu. Previously, it was served with Cajun-style dirty rice, which was delicious. I love classical sauce making, so I created a modern version of a sauce à la orange for the duck. We also roast fresh Japanese turnips from a local farmer for the dish.
There’s now a beef tartare on the menu, which we gained from community feedback. It includes a truffle dressing, which many people enjoy, and a spicy piquillo pepper sauce. The familiar ingredients help make the dish approachable.
We kept the duck breast on the menu but made some changes. It’s now served with a sauce made from tahini and sesame oil, which has a nutty, lightly bitter aftertaste. We also make a blackberry sauce with duck jus and fresh blackberries. The dish includes roasted cabbage, which is caramelized and tender.
How often do you plan to change your menu?
I believe in solid seasonal changes and working with what’s available. The menu could change once a week, a couple of times a month, or more often, depending on what’s best at the moment.
What are you hoping to preserve at Aria?
The short ribs have been a staple at the restaurant for years, and people love them. I don’t see any need to change that. The dessert program is also a time-honored tradition at Aria. While we’ll bring some changes, we’ll continue to honor the classical desserts they’ve always done.
What kind of aesthetic changes are happening?
The restaurant’s exterior will be painted, and we’ll invest in new china and furnishings to bring a fresh look. We have a different color picked out for the exterior, but I won’t disclose it yet. We’ve already started some interior painting and touch-ups, and hopefully, the exterior will be done within the next month.
What are you most excited about?
I’m excited about the chance to take a restaurant that’s been important for so long and retain its values while making it new and beautiful. It’s about good food, good cooking, and great hospitality.
We have a team that’s been there for years. Having that core team is invaluable.
