Photograph by Lynsey Weatherspoon
Sapelo Island might just be the most peaceful place in Georgia.
A two-hour drive south of Savannah, it has 24 residents, according to JR Grovner, a native who has been running Sapelo Island Tours since he was 12 years old. Grovner’s family has lived on the island for 10 generations, and Sapelo’s peace and quiet, with its idyllic, untouched beaches and diverse wildlife, has kept him enamored with it his whole life.
“There are eight roads. There’s no police. No crime,” he says. “The kids can go outside and play without having to worry about anything.”
Sapelo Island is accessible only by ferry or private boat, and you need an invitation to visit; Grovner makes exclusive ferry reservations for visitors. Once they arrive on the island, he picks them up in a renovated school bus. He first takes them to Hog Hammock, a historic community and a bastion of Gullah Geechee culture. Descendants of enslaved West Africans and Caribbeans, the Gullah Geechee have their own language, music, spiritual practices, food, and artistry, all of which they proudly honor.
Grovner’s two-hour excursion also includes a Gullah Geechee basket-making demonstration, as well as a look around the historic Behavior Cemetery, a unique post–Civil War African American burial ground that reflects local customs.
Nearby is First African Baptist Church, the most historic of the island’s African American churches, which was founded by freed slaves in 1866. It was abandoned for decades, but the local cultural and revitalization society recently teamed up with students at the Savannah College of Art and Design to turn the church into a celebration of Gullah Geechee culture that seamlessly blends with the island’s nature.
The long-occupied coastal island has many historic sites that feature shells: Throughout the island, visitors can spot various structures built from tabby, a durable concrete localized to the Southeastern United States made from crushed oyster shells. Even older are the island’s shell ring mounds—large circular structures, as wide as 255 feet in diameter and several feet high, that were built with shellfish shells, bones, and other postmeal refuse. These shell rings, which date back to Indigenous communities living on the island more than 4,000 years ago, are still being studied, but scholars believe they may have been ceremonial in nature.
Sapelo Island’s beaches are another highlight. “Sometimes you’re the only person on the beach,” says Grovner, who notes that pristine, white-sand Nanny Goat Beach is the perfect spot to gaze up at night and see stars in a whole new light. It’s also home to nests of loggerhead sea turtles. From the island shores, people often see mother and calf pairs of the endangered North Atlantic right whales in the ocean waters.
Protected by the state for research, educational, and conservation purposes, Sapelo’s natural world has continued to thrive and delight. Grovner says “birds, wild cows, horses, and deer” roam through its forests, while alligators pop up from its waterways, and venomous diamondback rattlesnakes and copperheads are regularly spotted slithering through marshes.
Unfortunately, the future of Sapelo’s remaining year-round community, and of the Gullah Geechee culture, is in jeopardy. The “Gullah language is dying out because people are going to school on the mainland,” says Grovner. He adds that the county recently tried to raise the island’s taxes. “With developers closing in and a lot of the people getting up in age,” he says, “I don’t know what it’ll be like here 10 years from now.” In addition, the community is still reeling from a tragic dock collapse on the island in October 2024 during a Gullah Geechee cultural celebration, which resulted in the deaths of seven people.
For those wanting to help protect this extraordinary part of Georgia, Grovner’s advice is simple. “Spread the news. Come on a tour. See the sights, the beach, the birds, and enjoy the island.”
Insider Tips
When to Go
Sapelo Island is best enjoyed from April to May or September to October, when temperatures are milder and the humidity is less intense.
Where to Eat
Lula’s Kitchen offers delicious Gullah Geechee cuisine, including seafood, vegetables, and gumbo using local ingredients. The restaurant plays regional music driven by body percussion, homemade drums, and vocal harmonies for you to enjoy along with your meal.
Pro Tip
On the southwest side of the island, don’t miss a climb up the picturesque Sapelo Lighthouse, designed by renowned engineer and inventor Winslow Lewis: It is the second-oldest brick lighthouse in the country.
EXPLORE NEARBY
Courtesy of Ekyll Island Authority
Jekyll Island
“Our new exhibit gets you up close with box turtles, diamondback terrapins, and even an eastern diamondback rattlesnake. You’ll learn about the animals that share the same shores, waterways, and habitats as the sea turtles in our care. I always encourage guests to ask our staff about what they’re seeing during their visit: You never know what fascinating species may be with us that day.” – Jaynie Gaskin, Director
This article appears in our March 2026 issue.
