Nigri sushi

Photograph by Caroline C. Kilgore

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If you want to fully experience Tomo, skip the sprawling menu; the shrimp tempura roll and teriyaki-glazed chicken breast will only distract you from the immensity of chef Tomohiro Naito’s gift for Japanese cuisine. Your best option is to snag one of five nightly spots for Naito’s omakase (tasting menu), which starts at $100 and could include fluke with ponzu gelee and a lamb chop dusted in citrusy, almost minty sansho powder. If you’re not one of the lucky five—or want to drop less cash—simply tell your waitress how much you’d like to spend, and you’ll get a sampling of Naito’s best plates. Your faux-makase could include slivers of superfresh sashimi shimmering in a shallow pool of yuzu ponzu and extra-virgin olive oil and a simple slice of miso-marinated, broiled black cod. 3630 Peachtree Road, 404-835-2708,