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Opening August 18, the Lucian team’s next act Sargent is built for the Beltline

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The bar at Sargent, a new restaurant opening in the Old Fourth Ward from the team behind Lucian Books & Wine.

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee

When the team behind Lucian Books & Wine opens Sargent in Old Fourth Ward, the restaurant will not be a larger-format copy of its Buckhead sibling. Yes, the DNA is familiar: art as a starting point, books and wine as part of the experience, executive chef Jason Paolini in the kitchen, Jordan Smelt overseeing beverages, and Katie Barringer shaping retail and design. But Sargent is meant to move differently—less hushed destination, more everyday neighborhood brasserie; less hyper-seasonal tasting-style rhythm, more recognizable American classics executed with French technique.

Located along the Eastside Beltline, near 3 Parks Wine Shop and Forth hotel, Sargent opens August 18. Like Lucian, which takes its name from British painter Lucian Freud, Sargent is named for an artist: John Singer Sargent, the American portraitist known for his technical precision and expressive hand.

Oysters on the half shell

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee

This plays to the level of technique and fastidiousness in the food. Paolini describes the restaurant as an American brasserie centered on iconic American and French dishes.

“I want the menu to be recognizable and distinct,” he says, noting that the emphasis is less on novelty than sourcing, technique, and execution.

Whereas Lucian’s food is concise and highly rotational, Sargent’s menu will be roughly twice the size, with more seafood and a steadier set of staples. Meals will be structured more traditionally with starters and mains, instead of four or five courses. Expect bread service with chicken liver pate, a caviar sandwich, raw oysters, shrimp salad with toast, crab cake, and steak tartare to begin. There’s also roasted corn soup, chilled cucumber gazpacho, classic Caesar salad, and tomato and peach salad.

Club sandwich

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee

Lunch offerings will include a burger, chicken paillard, and duck confit. Paolini is especially focused on the club sandwich, a dish he says, “sounds pretty basic but is one of the best sandwiches on the planet.” His version will include poached chicken breast, carefully sourced bacon and tomatoes, and lemon aioli. The goal, he says, is to make it iconic.

Dinner will bring pasta carbonara, roasted halibut, duck breast, roasted chicken, and prime rib. Dessert will include crème caramel, made in house.

“The menu is designed with the coziness in mind, not comfort food in a Southern sense, but food that feels familiar, satisfying, and carefully made,” Barringer says.

Roasted chicken

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee

The beverage program follows the same logic: expansive yet disciplined. At Lucian, wine is the star, with more than 400 bottles. At Sargent, wine will remain central, but the list will contain half as many bottles, with 12 to 14 wines by the glass. Smelt says the structure will remain familiar to Lucian guests, organized by grape variety and then region or country, with a heavy emphasis on Europe and the United States, alongside select options from Greece, South Africa, and Australia. Smelt is making a concerted effort to keep about half the wine list at $85 or less. A concise “Lunchtime Bottles” list will offer curated selections priced from $45 to $75.

The biggest beverage evolution is the spirits. Smelt calls Sargent a “fuller bar,” with rum, mezcal, tequila, cordials, and single malts joining the mix. Cocktails will be classic and direct: the martini from Lucian, a Manhattan, Tom Collins, and aperitif-style drinks.

“We don’t need to reinvent everything,” Smelt says. “They’re classics for a reason.”

That same balance—familiar but elevated, polished but approachable—carries into the look and feel of the space. Barringer says the team kept texture and layering top of mind, including two custom murals by local artist Tommy Taylor. The goal, she says, was to make the restaurant feel established from day one, “like the space has been here,” even though it’s in a new building.

The dining room

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee

Where Lucian occupies one intimate rectangular room, Sargent is longer, larger, and divided into distinct zones: an 18-seat bar, main dining room, private dining room for 18, outdoor seating, and retail area. In total, Sargent will seat about 165 guests. Floor-to-ceiling windows, a dog-friendly patio, and the steady movement of BeltLine foot traffic give off an energetic vibe.

“At Lucian, you’re coming in as an escape from the chaos outside,” Barringer says. “Here, we are playing into the vibrancy of the neighborhood.”

Books will also have a larger presence at Sargent. Barringer, who previously had a bookstore, is expanding Lucian’s retail model with nonfiction titles focused on art and design, food and wine, film and photography, biographies, music, and more. For her, the book component is not decorative; it is part of how the restaurant invites discovery.

The bookstore area at Sargent

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee

Music will help distinguish the two restaurants, too. Lucian’s soundtrack tends toward instrumental selections; at Sargent, Smelt is looking to jazz and international music to match the restaurant’s livelier setting.

For all the differences, Sargent is not a rejection of Lucian’s ethos. It is an expansion of it—more seats, more menu items, more cocktails, more books, more neighborhood rhythm. The throughline is care. Barringer says she hopes guests leave “inspired, energized, satisfied,” with a renewed appreciation for what technique can do to classic dishes.

“It’s the same approach to service,” she says. “Always doing the best version of what we can do. Not cutting any corners.”

Chocolate profiteroles

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee

Philip Ramsay, DO

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Hospital: WellStar Atlanta Medical Center

Erich Randolph, MD

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Hospitals: WellStar Atlanta Medical Center, Northside Hospital

Special Expertise: prostate cancer, breast cancer, colon and rectal cancer

Sophie Lukashok, MD

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Hospitals: Piedmont Atlanta Hospital, Emory University Hospital Midtown

Special Expertise: AIDS/hiV, sexually transmitted diseases, hepatitis C, travel medicine

Lee Golusinski, MD

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Hospital: Emory University Hospital

Special Expertise: primary care sports medicine

O4W Pizza’s Anthony Spina is bringing the Grandma Pie back to Old Fourth Ward

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The Grandma Pie at O4W Pizza in Duluth

Photography by Jennifer Zyman

Even though O4W Pizza closed its namesake Old Fourth Ward location more than a year ago, the sting from the pizzeria’s schlep to the suburbs never truly went away for ITP-ers. The Duluth location, which opened last September, is bigger and in many ways better than the original—owner Anthony Spina perfected his pizza-making and added pastas, appetizers, and salads to the menu. But the convenience of having the Grandma Pie in your backyard is hard to beat.

Pine no longer—Spina is bringing his pizza back to Old Fourth Ward in mid-2018.

Rendering of the unnamed concept

Courtesy of Blue Hominy Public Relations.

Spina has partnered with Billy Streck, of Hampton + Hudson and Cypress Street Pint + Plate, to open a yet-to-be-named restaurant and bar in Studioplex’s new phase at 659 Auburn Avenue Northeast. Streck is a New York native with more than 20 years of experience in the industry (not to mention, he grew up in his family’s pizzeria). The new restaurant will not be a pizzeria alone, but more of a hybrid according to Streck. “The exciting thing about Anthony and I, we’re doing a collaboration project. So we wanted to combine our expertise into one spot.”

“It’ll be similar to what I’m doing out in Duluth, but a little different,” Spina says. “We’re playing around with some Italian dishes and making it more like gastro pub. I’ve got like ten pages of [possible dishes] right now and I’m going back and forth trying to figure out what I want to choose.”

Rendering of the unnamed concept

Courtesy of Blue Hominy Public Relations.

Spina’s pizza is still a big part of the menu. The new restaurant, which will be open for lunch and dinner, will serve the top-selling rectangular pies (such as the Grandma and the Detroit) from O4W Pizza, along with many other Italian sandwiches, pastas, and salads. The restaurant will also have vegan and gluten-free options (including a gluten-free Grandma Pie) in addition to a full beverage and bar program. Everything from the mozzarella to the bread will be made from scratch. And many of the menu items will be portable so that diners can take them to-go for a picnic on the nearby BeltLine.

Atlanta design studio Smith Hanes is on board to build out the restaurant and bar, which will face the Eastside Trail. Streck and Spina say they want the place to feel open, inviting, and communal. Early designs include banquette seating and an open kitchen where you can watch Spina at work.

Spina has racked up accolade after accolade for his pizza since he first debuted on Irwin Street in January 2015 (our Best New Restaurants and Best of Atlanta designations are just a few among them), and Strek has shown he knows how to build neighborhood restaurants where people want to hang out. (The fire pit at Cypress Street remains one of the best places to spend fall evening.) This new spot is sure to be one of the most anticipated openings of 2018.

Italian/Latin neighborhood restaurant Il Gusto Bistro to open next fall in the Old Fourth Ward

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A rendering of Il Gusto
A rendering of Il Gusto

Courtesy of CNNA Architects, Inc.

An Italian and Latin-influenced neighborhood bistro called Il Gusto Bistro will open in the Old Fourth Ward one year from now. Currently home to the Lantern House (589 Ralph McGill Boulevard), the property will be renovated, and the owner, George DeMeglio, will move in next door.

Il Gusto will serve dinner, and eventually lunch (paninis!), using fresh, seasonal ingredients. For dinner, pasta entrees will cost less than $15, while protein-based dishes will cost less than $18. No executive chef has been named, but DeMeglio has hired Bruce Logue of BoccaLupo and Jeff Russell of Great Northern Pasta Co. as consultants. He shared his plans below.

You don’t come from the hospitality industry, so how did you decide to open a restaurant?

Five years ago, I was thinking about what I would do next in life. I’ve worked in different industries—tech, construction, and economics—usually for someone else. I was ready to do something for myself. I have plenty of background in food as a foodie but none in the business.

Without the restaurant experience, how will you ensure Il Gusto is a success?

As an operations person, I feel comfortable with that side of things. I identified my weaknesses: I need an executive chef who can manage the kitchen and suppliers, and I need to refine my hospitality skills. Bruce Logue has been guiding me, helping me understand the design side, the kitchen side, and making sure what is put into place will work. Another friend, Jeff Russell, is helping me with pasta equipment and recipes. I’ve been reading a lot of Danny Meyer as inspiration on what to focus on as front of house.

What items do you envision on Il Gusto’s menu?

The dinner menu will be anchored by fresh pasta and the most amazing gluten-free pasta you’ve ever had, along with starches common in Italian cuisine, like faro and cannellini beans. We’ll use those to deliver seasonal ingredients like mushrooms. We’ll have your standard sauces (marinara, Bolognese), and also Northern Italian olive oil-based sauces with garlic, fresh herbs.

What else?

Roasted vegetables. I want to be a neighborhood restaurant—a place people will feel comfortable coming on a regular basis not only on their wallet but also on their belt.

For the protein: seafood will primarily be shellfish with fresh fish served as specials. Of course there will be chicken and pork. The beef will be mostly secondary cuts of meat like flank steaks and strip steaks. The greens will be organic. It’s not going to be a health food restaurant, but I want to have a healthy menu.

This sounds pretty Italian. How will the Latin influences be incorporated?

I love the way Latins deliver their proteins.—the chimichurri sauces, the Argentinian barbecue style of cooking. I am looking for a chef who has similar aspirations in that area. What is Italian if not Latin? I consider it different branches on the same tree.

What will the bar scene be like?

We’ll have a strong cocktail program—look at Frontera Grill in Chicago as an example—but my philosophy is ‘keep it simple and execute well.’ We’ll probably just start with a bartender and find someone who can grow into a bar manager. I’ll play a significant role in crafting the drink menu. We’ll have four beers on tap, and some gluten-free beer and cider. The wine menu will be moderate with a focus on carafes.

What’s your plan for the atmosphere? Will the lanterns be sticking around?

As much as I love the Lantern House, it’s going to echo more of the history of the neighborhood. The homes were built in the 1930s, Depression era. The restaurant will have an industrial feel that’s simple, clean, and feels traditional, like it’s been there a long time. We’ll have a handcrafted wooden bar and a little public art piece in the front. I’m working with Art on the [Atlanta] BeltLine since I am in the BeltLine overlay. I believe when you get great materials and treat them well, they shine.

Condesa Coffee

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Perched at the corner of Boulevard and Freedom Parkway in the base of the Tribute Lofts, Condesa attracts a diverse clientele all day long. Try a pour-over brewed in a Chemex over the latest shipment of Counter Culture beans. Baristas don the vests, ties, and suspenders of natty bartenders, and in fact, these fellows also mix cocktails (and offer a short list of wines and craft beers). Java gives way to Hemingway daiquiris as the sun sets.
Dancing Goats Coffee Bar

Freedom Park Trail

This paved, mostly shaded route is part of the PATH Foundation’s Stone Mountain Trail—which extends nineteen miles from Downtown to Stone Mountain Park—and offers a glimpse of the city without the crowds of the BeltLine’s Eastside Trail. Gently rolling hills hold the interest of more experienced runners without intimidating beginners. Park at the MLK historic site for an out-and-back through the Old Fourth Ward, Inman Park, and Candler Park; as you crest the final hill on the return, the sight of Downtown filling the horizon will leave you as breathless as your run.

Becky Nickerson, Agni Power Yoga

Following years of global travel, Becky Nickerson is back in her hometown and leading power vinyasa classes at Agni Power Yoga in the Old Fourth Ward. The asanas are traditional but the music is cool and fun—ever heard of hip-hop artist MC Yogi?—and her classes strike that difficult balance of welcoming beginners while providing a workout for the advanced. She also offers private instruction at Agni and a hot yoga class at AGX in Chamblee.

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