The verdict on 3 new Atlanta food and drink spots: Little Sparrow, Punk Foodie, and Burle’s Bar

Ford Fry’s new French brasserie, pop-ups at Ponce City Market, and a bar tucked into a plant shop

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The verdict on 3 new Atlanta food and drink spots: Little Sparrow, Punk Foodie, and Burle’s BarLittle Sparrow
Little Sparrow flitted into the former JCT Kitchen space in October, bringing a complete transformation. The dining room, now a grown-up, elegant version of its former self—think bistro tiles, rich wood tones, burgundy and hunter green accents—sets the tone for a selection of brasserie-style classics. Ford Fry’s mostly French menu doesn’t shy away from butter or salt, with many of the dishes on the heartier side. Standouts include onion soup topped with a properly torched Gruyère; delightfully spongy, golf ball–sized ricotta gnudi in a cacio e pepe sauce; and chicken schnitzel crowned with a heaping pile of greens in a lemon and anchovy dressing. But, if there’s one thing calling me back, it’s the french fries. Cut thick, they’re served with a choice of béarnaise or aioli, and you should try both—as well as add the raclette service for a $10 upcharge. You’ll get to watch your server pour copious amounts of melted cheese over your fries table-side. Pair the fries with one of the lighter dishes, such as a fluke crudo with lemon and extra-virgin olive oil. The Second Verse, an effervescent drink of vodka, grapefruit, lemon, and club soda, topped with red wine, will keep things interesting. Westside

Punk Foodie
Atlanta’s robust pop-up scene adds a certain excitement for adventurous diners looking to try dishes that can’t necessarily be found in restaurants (or are prepared by chefs who don’t quite have the means to open their own places, yet)—but it can be unwieldy to keep track of schedules. Punk Foodie, a pop-up aggregator founded by Sam Flemming, hopes to help pop-up chefs and diners alike with its new stall in Ponce City Market. The spot plays host to a rotating cast of chefs-in-residence and one-off events, serving as an accelerator for chefs looking to eventually open a permanent spot. The menu changes depending on who is in the kitchen (you’ll want to check the website before heading over), but it could be anything from yuzu pepper wet wings by Ganji Korean Fusion for lunch to corn ribs and oxtail empanadas by Jimmie’s Jerk Chicken for dinner. Old Fourth Ward

Burle’s Bar
What’s better than a plant shop? A plant shop with a bar. That is, specifically, Burle’s Bar, located within the Victorian Atlanta plant shop’s new outpost on the BeltLine’s Eastside trail. With 1960s flair, Burle’s honors its leafy locale with ample green decorative touches, creating a moody, laid-back environment in which to sip a cocktail or two. Even the drinks reflect the setting, with playful garnishes found in the likes of the Painkiller (rum, creme de coco, pineapple, orange juice, and lime) and the Zombie (rum blend, lime juice, pineapple, passion fruit, Herbsaint, and bitters). Note that food is not currently served here. Old Fourth Ward

This article appears in our January 2024 issue.

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