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Located in the lilli Midtown building at the corner of 3rd and Peachtree streets, the food at Lyla Lila is inspired by the cuisines of southern Italy and Spain will include house-made pasta and wood-fired meats and seafood, along with Old World wines and seasonal cocktails.
In Atlanta, I worship the housemade versions of spaghetti from the kitchens of Michael Patrick (Storico Fresco), Bruce Logue (BoccaLupo), and Drew Belline (No. 246), whom I call the three kings of pasta. But if there's something that Atlanta can't get right, however, it's baguettes.
While Storico Fresco is a brilliant store, it’s not much of a restaurant. I had two meals from the menu and two others that sampled from takeout cases, and almost every single dish from the brown paper packages and plastic containers was better than the ones on the restaurant menu.
Toys, a self-service wine station, and orders that come out faster than your two-year-old can say “more snacks!” mean Riccardo Ullio’s Italian outpost is about as family-friendly as a restaurant that doesn’t serve corn dogs can get.
For ten or eleven months a year, zucchini is practically invisible, and then for a few weeks it bursts out of the ground and takes over the garden, producing fruit at breakneck speed, daring those of us who love it to try to keep up. Here’s an excellent recipe from Mark Bittman’s Quick and Easy Recipes from The New York Times that unites zucchini with a few of its favorite companions: cheese, basil and pasta.
Barry’s take on spaghetti and meatballs (she calls them by their Italian name, polpettini) reinterprets her mother’s workaday staple. She freshens up a simple marinara with roasted cherry tomatoes and replaces noodles with wide rectangles of fresh pasta (available at Buckhead’s Storico Fresco).
It’s been a long road to glory for pasta in Atlanta. Without the large Italian population that blessed other American cities, we never had a community to teach us how to revere fragrant bowls of noodles.
Winter is for soups and stews. Spring is for salad. Summer is for anything with tomatoes in it. But fall, fall is for pasta.
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